2009 The Vac Vacqueyras, France

I have been toying with this wine for the better part of 4 months, each time grasping a bottle, setting it in my cart only to go back and set it back on the shelf. But after reading through the spring Total Wine & More mailer, I finally decided to purchase a bottle. Rated 92 points by the International Wine Cellar, this wine features strawberry and cherry aromas with nuances of plum and pepper wafting from the rim of a ruby rimmed, dark purple pour. The wine is quite fruit forward, with notes of plum, blackberry and raspberry and lingering hints of cola and smoke. The mid-palate is nicely acidic, bringing up bright textures and a slight pucker factor with subdued tannins and astringency. In my opinion, this wine shines during the finish; pouring on loads of dark, smoky blackberry, black currant and plum with vanilla, leather, pepper and something akin to flower petals. These flavors swirl together mixing in a dark dance of dark fruit, then savory spices and finishes with wood and smoke characteristics. This is a medium bodied wine with cherry vanilla, oak and rose hips. This is a wonderfully complex wine, though it tries to trick you and make you think it is a nice fruit forward “California” red; in reality, it is a textured French red with earthy characteristics that mask the relatively sweet fruits thus transforming a potentially bland, one dimensional Rhone blend into something elegant, compelling and very satisfying.

Overall, I am not a huge fan of Rhone blends as they tend to be more fruit forward than I like; however this wine balances its sugars with equal helpings of spice and earth. It makes up for its shortcomings by providing a very broad range of flavors that blend nicely together leaving me quite satisfied. I don’t often seek out “sweet” French reds, but this would definitely make my list of must haves for rounding out your wine cellar. A bottle of The Vac will please most discerning wine drinkers that stop by for Coq au Vin, Beef Burgundy or a myriad of other savory dishes. It earns a good QPR and a recommendation from me.

Arnoux & Files Vins des Cotes du Rhone 

2008 Francois Lurton Hacienda Araucano Carmenere, Chile

Simple shades…Dark purple that lightens at the rim

Fruit fragrant…Blueberry, boysenberry, cherry vanilla

Two-toned taste…I ventured outside my usual “wine stores” and purchased this bottle at the Whole Foods around the corner from my house. They stock a lot of the same wines that I see at my local grocer, but they have a decent selection of wines I’ve never come across. Most of them are organic wines and I had a quite pleasant conversation with an organic wine drinker that was deciding whether or not to try Syrah for the first time. That’s neither here nor there but it makes for a good story for another post. On to the review. Basically this wine is what I’d call a two-tone wine all the way around. The aromas are of blueberry/boysenberry and cherry vanilla. The attack features two distinct flavors blueberry/blackberry and licorice/tobacco. I’m not saying it tastes bad; it’s just pretty simple. The mid-palate lacks any real astringency, but shows a decent amount of alcohol heat and tingle on my tongue mixed in with some very playful tannins as they bring just a hint of pucker but serve to make the mid-palate and subsequent finish taste of wood/oak/smoke. The finish is medium in length and carries those same berry flavors, mixed now with the wood/oak/smoke and finally just a dollop of chocolate and cinnamon. The wine itself feels heavy in my mouth but it’s really only a medium bodied effort with an aftertaste of oak and apple (I know that sounds weird in a red wine but that’s what’s left on my tongue between sips).

Overall, I think this is just a bit too boring for me. I’d purchased this in hopes of finding yet another intriguing glass of wine from the Carmenere grape, instead I didn’t really find anything that reminded me of what I’ve come to expect from Carmenere. It lacks the signature herbaceous, green bell pepper and black pepper savory-ness of most Carmeneres; instead showing characteristics of a full bodied Malbec. That’s not saying this is a bad wine, merely an average wine and not a clear example of what this grape usually tastes like. It gets an OK QPR, and a weak recommendation from me only if you want to try something new or are bored with your usual Malbec. If that doesn’t describe you, steer clear of this and seek out nearly any Anakena Carmenere or Chateau Los Boldos Carmenere priced over 12 dollars.

 Francois Lurton

2009 Santa Julia Reserva Malbec, Argentina

Color – Garnet red

Nose – Blackberry, compost, forest floor, wet leaves, wood

Taste – This is another gem I found at my local Cost Plus World Market on sale for something like 5 dollars off the normal price, I think I ended up paying 12 dollars for this particular bottle. I am glad I decided to purchase this bottle, more than glad of that fact. This pours dark and heavy in the glass, with aromas to match, and I was almost giddy with excitement when I lifted the glass to my lips for the first time. I wasn’t disappointed; this wine virtually assaulted my taste buds with flavors dark fruit, oak, charred caramel and damp soil. The mid-palate is all elegant textures of full tannins, boisterous alcohol and perfect astringency. The finish is long and wandering; featuring flavors that bounce around from blackberry to smoky oak to sour dark cherry to coffee grounds. This is firmly in the full bodied category as the wine sits with a definite “weight” on the palate. The textures, complexity and depth of this wine are just shy of perfect. I would be happy had I paid full price for this wine, it’s that good in the glass. I will admit that I sampled this without pairing it, though I imagine a good steak, lamb off the grill, or savory fish would suit this wine quite nicely.

Overall, this wine is a good-to-great QPR, easily worth 15-20 dollars. It’s complex with flavors of oak, wet soil and dark fruits as well as tannins that grab hold and won’t let go. I would go out of my way to seek out another glass of this wine. It’s just that good. Sure it’s not a fruit forward Malbec, falling more into the category of a Cabernet Sauvignon-Malbec Blend. But it shows off some wonderful flavors and textures. This is a buy now wine, so seek it out at your next trip to Cost Plus, better yet go out of your way to make a trip to Cost Plus sometime this week, you won’t be disappointed.

Familia Zuccardi